Our second morning in Karlovy Vary, Czech Republic, my husband Will and I took a guided walk of the central spa zone. In my historical novel-in-progress, The Water Cure, my protagonist Marie walks this route almost every day. Much of the current landscape would be familiar to Marie. Three of the city's main colonnades have changed little since 1914. They still shelter visitors who drink the local mineral spring water from taps flowing into old basins.
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| Mill Colonnade - the city's largest colonnade has 124 Corinthian columns |
The Mill Colonnade is a significant setting in my novel-in-progress. Our guide Barbora Volfova said that when the colonnade opened in 1881, many people disliked its classical style. I find the Mill Colonnade impressive but agree the picturesque Park and Market Colonnades might better reflect Karlovy Vary's predominantly baroque architecture.
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| Park Colonnade |
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| Me and Barbora Volfova in front of Karlovy Vary's typical buildings |
| Market Colonnade |
Of the city's five original spa buildings, the Elisabeth Spa is the only one that still offers bathing facilities to the public. Today's visitors generally "take the cure" at one of thirty accredited spa hotels that pipe in the mineral water. In my story, Marie works at the Elisabeth Spa, and I was eager to see the inside. Before my trip, I emailed the Elisabeth Spa, explained my writing and research project, and asked if I could view their historical areas. Director Miluše Bartoňková and her assistant Kristína Jabornická generously offered Will and me a tour of the building as well as complementary traditional baths.
My protagonist Marie gets her first view of her future workplace on her first day in Karlovy Vary. She calls it a palace. Austrian Emperor Franz Josef commissioned the spa building in the early 1900s to honour his late wife Sisi (Elisabeth).
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| Marie's first view the Elisabeth Spa |
When Marie goes for her job interview, she glimpses the building's opulent interior.
Marie's workdays as a bath attendant are spent in the spa's bathing area. I had pictured an enormous room with sculptures and ornate decorations, individual tubs scattered throughout, men on one side of the room, women on the other, soaking in bathing costumes and sometimes chatting with their neighbours.
It turns out people bathed in plain, private rooms along corridors. Will and I bathed nude, which I gather is the tradition. After our baths, our attendants wrapped us in sheets. We lay on table beds to let the water's warmth seep through us.

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| Chairs for waiting your turn in a private room |
Miluše and Kristína took me to the basement to show me the old equipment for peat baths. These involved immersing your body in warm water infused with peat or mud.
It all looks yukky to me, but having Marie administer peat baths would add interest to the story.
Will and I left the Elisabeth Spa by the back entrance as Marie and the other service staff do in The Water Cure. Now I can visualize the outside lane.
Next, we scouted lodgings for Marie within walking distance of her workplace. Will liked this building.
I found it too large and luxurious and preferred this simpler lime green home.
My choice will probably win, since it is my story.
This day of research/touring provided me with many new images and descriptions for the second draft of my novel-in-progress. The numerous changes required feel daunting, but I'm excited to enrich the story and get things as right as I possibly can.






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