Travels Through (Former) War Zones

                                        Please click this link for book and author information

My new novel, A Killer Whisky, takes place during World War One, and I've been doing a lot of reading on the subject for research. The books have made me realize my ignorance about the Great War, as it was called at the time, despite having watched numerous costume dramas set during that era (Downton Abbey springs to mind) and visiting sites on the Western Front during a 2015 holiday in Northern France.   

Canadian National Vimy Memorial commemorates the 1917 Battle of Vimy Ridge in France

This September, I travelled to Croatia and Slovenia in the former Yugoslavia, which was a battleground for three wars in the twentieth century. A Serbian nationalist set off the First World War when he assassinated the heir to the Austro-Hungarian throne. Austria-Hungary declared war on Serbia and, as part of the empire, Croatia and Slovenia were conscripted to the side of the Central Powers. Italy joined the opposing Allies and attempted to break through the Slovenian mountains to capture Vienna. The result was 12 Battles of the Isonzo (Soca) River. Italy's efforts largely failed -- the mountainous terrain favoured the defenders -- and accounted for half of the Italian military deaths in WWI.    

Our September drive through Slovenia took us by the Soca River, which originates in the Julian Alps and is one of the world's rare rivers that maintains its emerald-green colour for its full length. Today, the region is popular with hikers, kayakers, and others who enjoy wilderness activities. 

After WWI, the victorious Allies carved Yugoslavia ("Land of the South Slavs") from the Austria-Hungary empire. When WWII broke out twenty years later, German, Hungarian, and Italian forces invaded Yugoslavia and divided the regions among themselves. A Yugoslav resistance movement emerged led by Josip Broz Tito. After the war, Tito's communist party (the only party on the ballot) won victory. Tito served as national leader until his death in 1980.    

Tito's former summer home on Slovenia's beautiful Lake Bled is now a luxury hotel. You can rent an economy room at Vila Bled during this current off-season for about $230 CAD a night including breakfast. 

Vila Bled, Slovenia

Lake Bled, Slovenia

A decade after Tito's death, ethnic tensions in Yugoslavia erupted into civil war. During our trip, we encountered the most evidence of that war in Dubrovnik, Croatia. In 1991, the fortress on Mount Srd outside the Dubrovnik Old Town became the last stand for this southern part of Croatia against the Yugoslav army, composed of Serbs and Montenegrins. 

View of Mount Srd from the Old Town - the darker tiles on roofs have replaced tiles that were damaged during the war

When they couldn't capture the fortress, the Yugoslav army bombed and blockaded the Old Town, killing 92 civilians and damaging half the buildings. This map on a city wall marks the property damage. 

Most of the damage was reconstructed during the next 30 years. The city's Sponza Palace features a Memorial Room dedicated to the city's volunteer defenders who died during the seven-month siege. 

The fortress on Mount Srd now contains a museum depicting the war's events. We overheard a young tour guide point out her father in this photo of the volunteer defenders. 

The siege ended when Croatia finally got its army organized and drove out the attackers. Between 1991 and 2008 Yugoslavia became seven separate nations. The ones we visited seem peaceful now, but the war's history is startlingly recent.    

None of this detail appears in my novel, A Killer Whisky, which takes place on the WWI home front in Calgary, Canada. But the war in Europe is a constant presence in the story and my characters must deal with its impacts on daily life, the uncertainties the war creates for their futures, and sudden, unexpected deaths -- since the book is murder mystery. A Killer Whisky, the 12th and final novel of BWL's  Canadian Historical Mystery Series, will be released in December. 

Each November, Calgary's Field of Crosses commemorates Southern Alberta soldiers who died in wars 

      

        

My Road Trip Through Croatia and Slovenia

                                           Please click this link for book and author information

In September my husband Will and I flew to Split, Croatia, to visit our son Matt, who is living there for a year. Before leaving, Will plotted a 10-day road trip from Split through mountains, lakes, and charming towns in Croatia and neighbouring Slovenia. Matt took a holiday from work to join us.  

Our trip began with a couple of glitches - the long range weather forecast predicted rain and unseasonably cool temperatures and the airline lost our luggage with our warm and waterproof clothing. Our first stop on the drive was the Mall of Split, where we bought rain ponchos, umbrellas, toothbrushes, and spare t-shirts, underwear and socks. 

Day two was Plitvice National Park, about three hours north of Split on the scenic mountainous route. We spent six hours at the popular park walking by hundreds of waterfalls and clear, green lakes. The views were awesome and we were comfortable in our five layers of clothes. The rain held off until the end of our walk, but I wore my poncho the whole time for warmth. 

Selfie on the lake boat ride

The following day, we drove to Slovenia. The highway wound past cornfields and picturesque towns, including Novo Mesto, birthplace of Melania Trump. At Ljubljana airport we were reunited with our luggage, which Split Airport had eventually located and kindly flew to our next destination. Dressed in our warm jackets, we enjoyed an evening walk in Ljubljana's downtown riverfront cafe area which buzzed with people and activity. It was lovely to see the castle, buildings, and bridges lit up on a dark clear night.    

In the morning, we rode the funicular up to the castle that dominates Slovenia's capital city. The highlight was the tower lookout's 360-degree views of the surrounding area. The recent precipitation had fallen as snow on the mountaintops, which made the city's backdrop extra spectacular. 

After our Slovenian lunch of sausages and cabbage soup, we had dessert and cappuccinos at the rooftop restaurant in Nebotičnik Skyscraper (12 stories) for more panoramic views until rain chased us into the National Museum of Slovenia. The museum portrayed the history of Slovenian peoples from Neanderthal to the present time.  

Oldest musical instrument in the world - 60,000 years old Neanderthal flute from the Divje babe cave

 

From Ljubljana, we settled in Lake Bled for three nights. On our first walk, the lake was stunning in the late afternoon light. 

In the morning, we walked up to Bled Castle and around the lake. At the far end, we hiked to a viewpoint with views of Bled Island and Bled Castle. The day's weather was perfect - sunny and high of twenty degrees Celsius (68 F).  

A lite lunch at the Bled Castle cafe 

Bled Island with church in middle of the lake, Bled Castle at the far end

On our second full day in Bled, we did a day trip to Vintgar Gorge. Since COVID, the Triglav National Park has set up a system of timed entries and one-way trails to reduce congestion during the crowded summer season. We found the gorge didn't outshine similar ones in our Canadian backyard, but the return path with views of Bled Castle and valley villages made the trek worthwhile. The park charges 10 Euro per person which includes helmets for protection from falling stones and banging your head on the rocks jutting out from the side of the gorge's narrow boardwalk trail. 

The following day, we set out for the Julian Alps, took a wrong turn, and found ourselves in a five-mile tunnel. Half-way through it, Matt's phone pinged: "Welcome to Austria." Oops! Our car rental was only insured for Croatia and Slovenia. At the Austrian end, a lineup of delivery trucks stretched for miles. 

To avoid getting stuck in the lineup, Matt found us a route through Austrian villages and a mountain pass back to Slovenia. We stopped at Kranjska-Gora, a resort town that reminded of us of Banff in our home province of Alberta.    

For several hours, we drove the fifty switchbacks (they are numbered) up and over the Vrsic Pass. We stopped at viewpoints with vistas of craggy mountains and a Russian Chapel constructed by WWI Russian prisoners of war who built the road. Many died in the process and are buried near the chapel. 

Mountain sheep brought traffic to a halt on a switchback turn

Saturday was caves. First we visited Predjama Castle, built in the mouth of a cave. Guiness World Records lists it as the world's largest cave castle. The original owner was a robber baron who possibly used the 12 miles of tunnels leading into the mountains to hide his booty. 

View from castle cave window

Postojna Cave was massive, impressive, and fun. A 10-minute train ride took us deep into the cave. A guide led us on an hour-long walk through the multitude of formations. The walk ended at aquarium of olm, a cave salamander completely adapted to life in underground water. Since food isn't plentiful in caves, olm only eat every ten years. Scientists estimate their average lifespan is 68.5 years. 

Matt, Susan, & Will on train

Olm in aquarium 

After the caves, we left Slovenia, re-entered Croatia and headed for the coast. Our last days of the road trip were sunny and warm. We took the slow and winding coastal route back to Split, stopping at seaside towns and villages. 

The summer-like weather prompted us to swim at one of the numerous beach coves along the coast. Quite a change from our cool, rainy days at the start of our drive and a fabulous finale to our road trip.