One
of the many aspects of writing historical novels is clothing your characters in
the correct costume of the day. The Regency, my favorite historical period, was the most under-dressed era since the ancient Greeks emulating their draperies with light and flowing muslin and silk. Imported from India by the East India Company muslin, especially white muslin, became the prerogative of the upper classes. Muslin had identical warp and weft and came in different weights and widths. It could be embroidered or printed and easily dyed. Muslin could be used for day or evening wear, but was not very warm. As houses could be cold and draughty and ladies dresses were
rarely designed for warmth, the addition of a Kashmir shawl thrown around her
shoulders or worn as a stole for evening wear would have given some comfort and
protection from any chills.
Kashmir,
or cashmere as we know it today, is the fiber spun from the soft, downy winter
undercoat of goats, especially Asian goats. As the days grow shorter, this fine
underhair grows longer. The wool is collected during the spring moulting season
when the goats naturally shed their winter wool. If it is collected by hand and
combing there is a higher yield of pure fiber. If the fleece is shorn it has
to be separated from the coarse outer hair, which can be used for brushes and
coarser fabrics.
The
founder of this industry is traditionally considered to be the fifteenth
century ruler of Kashmir, a region in northwest India, Zayn-ul-Abidin, who
introduced weavers from Turkestan. From pashm (the Persian word for wool),
these weavers produced the wonderfully warm and soft pashmina shawls. These
were introduced into Western Europe by the General-in-Chief of the French
Campaign in Egypt (1799-1802) who sent one to Paris where it caused immediate
interest.
Paisley
became a popular pattern with which to decorate these shawls and could either
be woven or embroidered in that pattern. The paisley pattern that we know so
well today may have been derived from the buta
or boteh, which is a droplet shaped
design originating in Persia (Iran). It is also sometimes called Persian
pickles in America and Welsh pears if used in Welsh textiles. However, the
western name is likely derived from the town of Paisley in Renfrewshire,
Scotland, which became the major producer of paisley shawls during the period
1800 – 1850.
Today
we don’t have to worry about flimsy dresses or cold houses but still enjoy our
pashminas in a variety of plain or patterned colors. They come in a variety of fabrics from wool to cotton and silk and various mixes of man-made fibers. They still add a touch of luxury and can enhance any outfit whether you choose to dress up or down, classy or casual and is one of the most versatile fashion additions to add to any wardrobe.
sources:
Wikipedia
Jane Austen's World
www.paisleypower.com
Victoria Chatham
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