Mexican Celebrations

The Day of the Dead displays were still on the Malecon when my husband Will and I arrived in Puerto Vallarta, Mexico, on November 15th. Plaster and papier mâché skulls, altars, and Catrinas lined the ocean boardwalk, remnants of Nov 2nd's Dia de los Muertos - the day many Mexicans honour their deceased relatives and friends with celebrations, parades, and visits to gravesites. The Malecon's most impressive display was the elegantly dressed skeleton lady standing 74 feet 4.9 inches tall. Last year the Guiness Book of Records declared her the tallest Catrina in the World. In 2023 she returned in a new outfit that shimmered in the breezes. At night a loudspeaker piped her voice to the Malecon crowd, "I am the most beautiful woman in Puerto Vallarta."

Hola From Mexico

 

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In November my husband Will and I took our first holiday outside of Canada in 2 1/2 years. We flew to Puerto Vallarta, Mexico, on the Pacific coast, and spent our first week in Bucerias, a town on Banderas Bay north of PV and popular with Canadian snowbirds. 

Will and I have visited Bucerias before, but hadn't stayed overnight. We rented an Airbnb apartment that was a steep climb up a hill from the main street and beach. Our reward for this exercise several times a day was a glorious view from our deck of the town and ocean. 

This part of Mexico has relatively low reported COVID-19 cases, but low vaccine rates compared to Canada. We found the health protocols were pretty good. Large stores, restaurants, and crowded outdoor areas like markets had temperature-taking machines and hand sanitizer at the entrances. Mask recommendations were everywhere and observed to varying degrees. Our mostly outdoor lifestyle made us comfortable. Every day was sunny with highs around 30 degrees Celsius (86 degrees Fahrenheit). Great for the beach and pool, but hot walking up that hill mid-day.

A highlight of the week was a leisurely breakfast at Karen's, a beachfront restaurant, with my writer/editor friend Marie, who moved from Calgary to Bucerias eleven years ago. I met Marie through the Puerto Vallarta Writers Group, which I joined after my first trip to the area. The group emails were a warm reminder of my sunny times in Puerto Vallarta. Shortly after I joined, the group decided to publish a short story collection and invited members to submit their writing. I was thrilled when my story, Freezer Breakdown, was accepted and appeared in the collection, which Marie co-edited. The following year the group published Coast Lines 2 and another short story I wrote made the cut. Unfortunately, the Puerto Vallarta Writers Group folded shortly afterward, but Marie and I kept in touch.

Our second week, Will and I moved south down the bay to Nuevo Vallarta, where we rented a beachfront condominium with his sister. Our first full day we took a taxi to Sayulita, a surfing/hippie town up the coast. It was Sunday and Sayulita was packed with Mexican families along with the out-of-country tourists. It was fun to watch the surfing action on the beach.   

 

In Nuevo, we rented bicycles for two days to explore our local area. We wound up exploring more than we liked when we got lost trying to find Ernesto's, an out of the way restaurant we've enjoyed in the past. It turned out to be closed. Hot, hungry and thirsty, we biked back to a traditional Mexican restaurant we'd spotted on the way, and added a new restaurant to our favourites list. 

 

Refreshed by our fajitas, enchiladas and and drinks, we pedaled 'home' and cooled off at the beach, and later with an evening swim in the pool. 

This time of year, sea turtles hatch from nests all along the beach. On a morning walk, we watched the babies crawl over the sand to the ocean.

  

On a walk back from the pool, I made a new friend.   

 

         

We're now wrapping up our trip with ten nights in downtown Puerto Vallarta. It's a change from our first two locations. Streets are crowded with people. About 100 restaurants within a few blocks of our hotel tempt us with low prices and atmospheric settings on the beach, on sidewalks or in leafy courtyards. 

Our big excursion was a boat tour to Animas, a beach not accessible by vehicle. On the way, we snorkeled at Los Arcos, Puerto Vallarta's iconic rock formation. I saw a few fish, but would have been happy just to swim by the rocks and through the rock tunnel. The trip involved numerous transitions between boats, piers and shorelines that I couldn't have managed without the guides' helping hands. Most of our fellow passengers were younger than us and Mexican. Information in English was minimal and occasionally inaccurate, which made for some surprises. They became part of the adventure and the whole day was a lot of fun, capped by Mexican party games on the return trip.  

Los Arcos

Tomorrow, my birthday present from my kids will be dinner at The Iguana Restaurant in Casa Kimberly, the former home of Elizabeth Taylor. The actress's affair with actor Richard Burton during the location filming of the movie The Night of the Iguana launched Puerto Vallarta's tourism boom. The restaurant has panoramic views of the city and bay. We've booked a table for sunset. 

Looking down from The Iguana Restaurant

Burton and Taylor in Puerto Vallarta during the filming of The Night of Iguana

A few days from now we'll fly home to Calgary, where there's snow on the ground and temperatures around freezing. I see snowmen and reindeer holiday decorations all over Puerto Vallarta, and they seem weird in this tropical climate.