In my novels Yvonne, Lady of Cassio, Volume One of The
Lovages of Cassio, and in Grace, Lady of Cassio, Volume Two, which begins in
1331, (to be published in August 2021) I describe the characters clothes to
help readers visualise them. As I write, I imagine wealthy ladies’ sumptuous garments.
For example, “Powdered (sprinkled) with designs,” Rich fabrics powdered
(patterned) or embroidered and enhanced with pearls.
Fashions changed. By 1330 garments were shaped to
reveal instead of concealing women’s figures. Necklines became lower, long
sleeves fitted tightly and were either stitched up or fastened with buttons
from the elbow to the wrist. To render her vesture more perfect a silver
needle was filled with thread of gold, and both her sleeves were closely sewed.
Roman de la Rose.
I like this contemporary description. “These
tournaments are attended by many ladies of the first rank and greatest beauty,
but not always of the most untainted reputation. They are dressed in
part-coloured tunics, one half being of one colour and the other half of
another, with short hoods and liripipes which are wrapped around their heads
like cords; their girdles are handsomely decorated with gold and silver and
they wear short swords or daggers before them in pouchesa little below the
navel; and thus habited they are mounted on the finest horses that can be
procured and ornamented with the richest furniture.” Henry Knighton, 1348.
Kirtle
The kirtle (gown) was laced at the back or front to
the waist, or a little lower, and worn with a girdle around the hips.
Over
Garments
The
long cote-hardie worn over the kirtle fitted closely. It was buttoned to
below the waist or had a low neck and was pulled down over the head.
Surcoats
Surcoats
with or without sleeves were worn over the kirtle. Unlike the cote-hardie they
did not fit close to the body. They were either knee-length or ankle length,
sometimes had slits up the sides and were worn without a girdle.
Outer Garments
Short
Pelissons lined
with fur.
Cloaks lined
with fur had hoods and were worn to keep warm when travelling. Mantles Worn on
ceremonial occasions were lined with expensive material, tied loosely with
tasselled cords passed through jewelled attachments. Garde-Corps Women
sometimes wrapped one around themselves over their inner garments.
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