Gentlemen’s Fashion in the Early 18th Century Part One by Rosemary Morris

 

To find out more about Rosemary and her books please click on the cover.

I write classic, fact fiction, historical novels set in different eras. At heart I am a historian and enjoy research that brings my characters’ lives and times to life. Three of my published novels, Far Beyond Rubies, Tangled Love and the Captain and the Countess are set in Queen Anne Stuart’s reign, 1702-1714. I am now writing my fourth novel set in her reign.

Throughout the 18^th century the basic details of a gentleman’s suit, a coat, waistcoat, and breeches were the same. However, the details changed. Full dress and undress differed according to the materials they were made from. Hard wearing ones were chosen for undress, less formal wear. Damask. cut velvet and satin, often lavishly trimmed, or embroidered were popular for full dress. At court, gold stuff, silver stuff, brocade, flowered velvet, or embroidered cloth was worn.

Coats were close fitting, with wide skirts that flared from the waist to a little after the knees. The loose-fitting, full sleeves with large cuffs ended above the wrist allowing the sleeves to be gathered into a narrow band edged with a ruffle aka frill.

Neckcloths. The lace edged ends of a simply tied neckcloth made, of linen, lawn or muslin flowed from the throat to halfway down the chest. An alternative was the steinkirk with ends threaded through a buttonhole on the right and fastened with a brooch. 

Waistcoats were tightly fitted at the waist, the skirt stiffened with buckram. Buttons and buttonholes matched those on coats. The lower buttons were unfastened. Bridegrooms wore white waistcoats.

Breeches were made of cloth, velvet, plush or silk knit lined with holland linen, dimity or shagreen silk. Unless they matched the coat, except for leather riding breeches, they were often black.

Stockngs. Hand knitted stockings were either plain or ribbed with clocks either knitted into the design, or hand embroidered with coloured silks, gold, or silver thread. They were made from thread, cotton, yarn, jersey knit, worsted, and silk; and were worn either over the hem or below it, held in place by a garter. Popular colours were red, scarlet, sky blue, brown, black, white, or grey. White stockings were worn at royal weddings.

The Greatcoat, aka Surtout or Cape Coat was a voluminous, knee length overcoat with a flared skirt, and a vent at the back necessary for riding a horse. A small collar, above a wide, flat one, could be pulled up over the ears to keep them warm. The greatcoat was often unfastened from the waist down. They were made from cloth, oilcloth, duffle, frieze, and other materials, and were fully or partially lined

Cloaks were full and gathered at the neck and fastened by a clasp beneath the chin. Sometimes they were worn over the shoulder.

Extract from W. Winthrop of Boston written to his brother in 1706. I desire you to bring me a very good camlet cloak lyined (sic) with what you like except blew (sic). It may be purple or red or striped with those, or another colour (sic), if so worn.

Footwear. According to research shoes with square toes and high square heels were made from black leather, but it is worth noting beaux wore shoes with red heels. Metal buckles were small, square, or oblong. Gold and silver ones were studded with diamonds. Thin, flexible pumps, some made from Spanish leather, had low heels, and were fastened with buckles. Slippers were worn indoors, For riding, hunting, and travelling, and for the military, Jackboots made of heavy black leather reached above the knees. Light Jackboots were shaped close to the leg but had a U-shape at the back to make it easy for the wearer to bend his knees. Half Jackboots were tight fitted to below the knees. They had cuffs in light coloured soft leather turned down over the tops.

 

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