I write classic, fact fiction,
historical novels set in different eras. At heart I am a historian and enjoy
research that brings my characters’ lives and times to life. Three of my
published novels, Far Beyond Rubies, Tangled Love and the Captain and the
Countess are set in Queen Anne Stuart’s reign, 1702-1714. I am now writing my
fourth novel set in her reign.
Throughout the 18th
century the basic details of a gentleman’s suit, a coat, waistcoat, and
breeches were the same. However, the details changed. Full dress and undress
differed according to the materials they were made from. Hard wearing ones were
chosen for undress, less formal wear. Damask. cut velvet and satin, often
lavishly trimmed, or embroidered were popular for full dress. At court, gold
stuff, silver stuff, brocade, flowered velvet, or embroidered cloth was worn.
Coats were
close fitting, with wide skirts that flared from the waist to a little after
the knees. The loose-fitting, full sleeves with large cuffs ended above the
wrist allowing the sleeves to be gathered into a narrow band edged with a
ruffle aka frill.
Neckcloths. The
lace edged ends of a simply tied neckcloth made, of linen, lawn or muslin
flowed from the throat to halfway down the chest. An alternative was the
steinkirk with ends threaded through a buttonhole on the right and fastened
with a brooch.
Waistcoats were
tightly fitted at the waist, the skirt stiffened with buckram. Buttons and
buttonholes matched those on coats. The lower buttons were unfastened.
Bridegrooms wore white waistcoats.
Breeches were made
of cloth, velvet, plush or silk knit lined with holland linen, dimity or
shagreen silk. Unless they matched the coat, except for leather riding breeches,
they were often black.
Stockngs. Hand
knitted stockings were either plain or ribbed with clocks either knitted into
the design, or hand embroidered with coloured silks, gold, or silver thread.
They were made from thread, cotton, yarn, jersey knit, worsted, and silk; and
were worn either over the hem or below it, held in place by a garter. Popular
colours were red, scarlet, sky blue, brown, black, white, or grey. White
stockings were worn at royal weddings.
The Greatcoat, aka
Surtout or Cape Coat was a voluminous, knee length overcoat
with a flared skirt, and a vent at the back necessary for riding a horse. A
small collar, above a wide, flat one, could be pulled up over the ears to keep
them warm. The greatcoat was often unfastened from the waist down. They were
made from cloth, oilcloth, duffle, frieze, and other materials, and were fully
or partially lined
Cloaks were
full and gathered at the neck and fastened by a clasp beneath the chin. Sometimes
they were worn over the shoulder.
Extract from W. Winthrop of Boston
written to his brother in 1706. I desire you to bring me a very good camlet
cloak lyined (sic) with what you like except blew (sic). It may be purple or
red or striped with those, or another colour (sic), if so worn.
Footwear. According
to research shoes with square toes and high square
heels were made from black leather, but it is worth noting beaux wore shoes
with red heels. Metal buckles were small, square, or oblong. Gold and silver
ones were studded with diamonds. Thin, flexible pumps, some
made from Spanish leather, had low heels, and were fastened with
buckles. Slippers were worn indoors, For riding, hunting, and travelling,
and for the military, Jackboots made of heavy black leather reached
above the knees. Light Jackboots were shaped close to the leg but had a U-shape
at the back to make it easy for the wearer to bend his knees. Half Jackboots
were tight fitted to below the knees. They had cuffs in light coloured soft
leather turned down over the tops.
http://bookswelove.net/authors/morris-rosemary
www.rosemarymorris.co.uk
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