Women's Fashions in the First Half of the 14th Century ~ Part Two by Rosemary Morris

 

To see more of Rosemary's work please click on the cover.

 

Women’s Fashion in the First Half of the 14^th Century

Part Two

 

In my novels Yvonne, Lady of Cassio, Volume One of The Lovages of Cassio, and in Grace, Lady of Cassio, Volume Two, which begins in 1331, (to be published in August 2021) I describe the characters’ clothes to help readers visualise the protagonists. As I write, I imagine the contrasts between wealthy ladies’ sumptuous apparel, well-to-do women, and poor people’s clothes.

Stockings

Stockings were supported by garters, strips of wool or linen, often embroidered, above or below the knees. Women who could afford them wore stockings made from either wool or linen. Poor women wore coarse woollen ones which, I imagine, were itchy.

Footwear

Shoes with points at the big toe were cut well and shaped to fit either foot around the ankle. They were fastened with laces on the inner or outer edge. Other shoes were designed like slippers, cut away over the instep and fastened with a strap and buckle around the ankle.

Wealthy women’s footwear was often embellished either with embroidery or charming patterns of squares, dots or flowers punched into the leather.

Short boots for walking, and possibly riding, ended below the calf, and were usually laced on the inner side or, occasionally on the outer.

Hair and Headwear

Women plaited their hair and coiled it around their ears. Their hair was always completely covered in various ways.

A veil and wimple.

A veil held in place by a fillet.

A barbette, a strip of linen passed under the chin and on either side of the face over a hairnet secured by hairpins.

A fret, hairnet, often brightly coloured.

Many pins were required to secure each of these headdresses.

Hoods were always worn by country women, and by other women when travelling and for warmth.

Accessories

Gloves were worn by women of every class. Wealthy ladies wore linen gloves to protect their hands from sunburn.

Aprons did not have bibs and tied around the waist. They were worn by ladies to protect expensive clothes and by working class women. Sometimes a band of embroidery decorated them below the waist.

Jewellery. Made of gold or silver set with precious stones, rings, brooches, buckles etc.

Girdles either plain or ornamented with gold or silver, sometimes set with gemstones, or worn around the hips and buckled or tied in front.

 

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Knights in the Age of Chivalry by Rosemary Morris

 

For more information on Rosemary's books please click on the cover. 

Knights in the Age of Chivalry

 

My novel, Grace, Lady of Cassio, The Lovages of Cassio, Book Two, sequel to Yvonne, Lady of Cassio, begins in the reign of Edward III. It will be published in October 2021.

At heart I am a historian. My novels are rich in historical detail which requires intensive research, some of which I am sharing in this blog.

 

The Path to Knighthood

At the age of seven a knight’s son served in another knight’s household, often his maternal uncle’s, where he trained to fight, first with a wooden sword. At sixteen, he knew knights should be courteous to each other and had been taught the four cardinal rules of chivalry - piety, prowess, loyalty, and moderation. Before being knighted, he had learned the skills necessary for an expert jouster. As a knight his raison d’etre was to fight.

Prior to being dubbed a knight, a squire bathed him before he dressed in white clothes and a red robe. At night, he stood or knelt in front of the altar in the chapel or Church for ten hours in solitude and silent prayer. At dawn, he attended Mass before presentation to his lord by two sponsors. The lord presented him with the sword and shield which were on the altar during the vigil. After an older knight struck him on his neck or cheek with his hand or the flat of his sword, the young knight swore a holy oath to dedicate his sword to justice, piety, the orphaned, the oppressed, the church and the widow.

Tournaments.

In tournaments aristocratic knights fought for fame and glory.

Jousting was dangerous. A late 14^th century knight wore armour weighing 80-100 lbs. He sat on a high saddle, charging at a closing speed of 40 miles per hour on a destrier weighing 200 lbs. He bore a lance with which all the potentially lethal force was concentrated on a steel tip. Jousts of peace with capped lances were less dangerous although a knight might fall from his horse, die, or be seriously injured.

A Perfect Knight

Although a knight was a fighting machine, when he removed his armour, he was expected to be courteous, gentle, devout, and cultured. John of Salisbury, a cleric, listed some of a knight’s duty. To defend the Church, to assail infidelity, to venerate the priesthood, to protect the poor from injuries…to pour out his blood for his brothers (as the formula of his oath directs him).

Tenants in Chief

Lords who had been knighted held their principal estates from the king and were called tenants-in-chief. They received a summons to attend each parliament and constituted the House of Lords. They were bound to serve the king with their retinues at their own expense for forty days each year at home or abroad.

Household knights.

Household knights promised to serve an overlord loyally for life in peace and war, wherever he was needed. He would serve at his overlord’s expense, be clothed by him, and provided with a suitable horse.

Clergy. Military Orders

 

The Order of the Temple abolished in 1308) and The Hospital of St John of Jerusalem (Hospitallers) Orders of knights were originally established to protect the routes to the Holy Land.

 

www.rosemarymorris.co.uk

 

http://bookswelove.net/authors/morris-rosemary